THE DEATH MINE OF SANTA BARBARA

August 14, 2017 SouthAmerica

Perhaps nothing would strike more fear into the hearts of men three-hundred years ago than the knowledge of being sent into the underground mines of Huancavelica, the Death Mine of Santa Barbara. Workers life expectancy there averaged two years, and many were sent underground never to see the light of day again. It was not just the poor working conditions and primitive mining methods of the Spaniards that was fatal, this was a mercury mine, and many died from mercury poisoning. Large underground collapses would kill hundreds at a time. The Spanish depleted the indigenous workforce over the decades, and then brought black slaves in to work the mines, however, the death rate of these unfortunate people just on the hike over the high cold Andes meant that many did not even reach the mines.

El historico tune Belen — Historic Belen Tunnel

Mina Santa Barbara — Santa Barbara Mine open pit

The Santa Barbara mine is the world’s fourth largest deposit of mercury, and for hundreds of years the production from the central Peru mine meant that the Spanish ships could carry other products from the Old World to the Americas instead of the much required mercury used in the metallurgical process of rich silver ores from Mexico, Peru, and Bolivia. When the Santa Barbara mine halted production from underground collapses, or other reasons, Spain would have to ship mercury from the Almaden mine. The control of mercury and its pricing was critical for Spain to regulate the value of the Spanish Peso, which was minted from silver.

The Santa Barbara mine lies on the crest of a jagged mountain of hard quartzite overlooking the remote and harsh once Colonial town of Huancavelica. This town is marked by old Spanish churches built from stone, a small plaza de Armas, many colonial buildings with their characteristic balconies and entranceways plus interesting doors. The town was always a problematic spot for the Spanish royalty administering it from the city of Lima, and then a hundred and fifty years later the small city was completely under the control of the rebel group called the Sendero Luminoso. Some tales from this time match the atrocities from the earlier Spanish administrations.

Iglesia de Santa Barbara Huancavelica Peru — Iglesia de Santa Barbara – Huancavelica

There is plenty to explore in the old ruins surrounding the main mine site, including the historic church that was built right next door to the old Belen tunnel that led into the heart of the mineral deposit. Nonetheless, few foreign tourists make it to this place. And it is easier than ever to travel there, now with the main road from the city of Huancayo is paved. A pleasant trip to Huancavelica can also be made by rail. Any trip to the town of Huancavelica should include a stay at the old Hotel Presidente. There is not much in the way of good dining, or services in Huancavelica, one could call it untouched by the modern world in many ways. A day hike up to the mercury mine will challenge many people’s legs, or one can hire a car to visit the mine and then return hiking down the old mercury ore trail. Plenty of old buildings survive in Huancavelica that make for interesting photography. For those interested in mining history of South America, Huancavelica and the Santa Barbara mine make the top ten list, along with Potosi, Oruro, Pulacayo, Porco, Marmato, Cerro de Pasco, Chuquicamata, Chanarcillo, and Ouro Preto.

Extensive history has been documented at Huancavelica, including the works “Las Minas de Huancavelica en los siglos XVI y XVII” by Guillermo Lohmann Villena, and “Historia de Huancavelica” by Federico Salas Guevara Schultz. A visit to the Death Mine of Santa Barbara can be captivating, causing one to dig through its history. I have written on experiences while staying in Huancavelica, and mapping the geology of the district, in “Fields Days in Peru.” And over the years, have spoken with various researchers investigating different aspects of the mercury mine. The attraction of the place is the deep history, the harsh conditions, the mix of cultures, the wealth and suffering it generated, and the many missing answers to what had happened in this old Spanish mine. We still have more to discover and understand about Santa Barbara.