5 Best Ruins in Peru that are not Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu is clearly Peru’s leading archaeological site in many terms for its spectacular setting, scale of the ruins, and by the large international scene of visiting tourists. But to come into Peru and only see this location sells short the rich and varied resources of Peru and provides very little context on the scale and complex nature of the Inca Empire and previous long habitation by other nation states. Visiting the below briefly described sites is a quick way to broaden one’s base understanding of important South American cultural legacy.
- Chavin de Huantar – Ancash region
The Chavin de Huantar site, hidden on the eastern flanks of the spectacular Cordillera Blanca, was a major temple for the Chavín culture. While ruin complex is not very large, it has yielded a wealth of artifacts that are displayed in the modern Museo Nacional de Chavín, which is located on the opposite side of the town from the ruins. The main feature of the Chavin de Huantar site is a temple building with underground tunnels that can be explored, with the center of the complex is focused on the most remarkable artifact of a large ornately carved blade-like stone that is called the Lazón Monolitico de Chavin de Huantar. The motifs and style of the graphics depicted on the stone are remarkably similar in character to those used in the Mayan cultures of Central America. Other characteristic works of the Chavín culture was the sculpture of melon-sized “Cabezas clavas”, or head keys, which are a bit similar to protruding ornaments used in the Aztec sites of Mexico. The small town adjacent to the ruins preserves a more typical Andean highland town setting, not being completely overrun with tourist agencies and expat catering restaurants and clubs as in the city of Huaraz. One can find here locally grown wheat, milled with a water-driven real stone grindstone, and then the flour is used at the local bakeries for incomparably fresh morning bread. To get to Chavín de Huantar, most people will travel by bus from Lima to Huaraz, a full day’s trip, and then the following day take a long day tour to the site, or you could hire a driver and car or take a local bus to Chavín de Huantar and spend the night there.
- Chan Chan Ruins – La Libertad region
The remarkable Chan Chan site, in the hyper-arid desert plain of northern Peru, lies on the northern limits of the large city of Trujillo. This ancient city, once belonging to the Moche culture, was entirely made from mud. Massive adobe walls defended the city, and interior to these walls are large plazas, labyrinth of pathways, and central warehouse for agricultural products of the region. The mud walls have detailed repeating motifs using distinct patterns, which in many cases incorporates ocean themes, such as pelicans and whales. Visiting Chan Chan is simple, with a direct flight from Lima to Trujillo and then from the city it is about a twenty minute taxi ride to the park entrance. While at Trujillo, one should also budget time to go visit the ruins of Huaca de la Luna, which has spectacular colorful painted plastered walls.
- Pampa de la Quinua- Wari Capital – Ayacucho
This Pre-Inca site is in the Ayacucho city, which in Quechua translates to the Place of the Dead, a name that stems from the burial city of the Wari culture’s capital. The ruins are to the north of the city of Ayacucho, on a plateau on the eastern side of the wide valley, a place that is called Pampa de la Quinua, which is also notable for its monument to a major historic battle defending Peru against the Chileans. The burial practices using deep multiple layered or stacked tombs have led to this site being referred to as a necropolis. For the Wari culture, Pampa de la Quinua was every bit as important as the Imperial site of Cusco was to the Incas. This site was constructed on Pliocene basalt flows, and therefore the stones used in the walls and tombs are made from carved, somewhat vesicular, black basalt. To visit the Wari capital, one can either fly directly to Ayacucho from Lima, or take several different roads to approach the city; the most direct route is to take the paved Via de Libertadores highway that comes from the coast near the town of Pisco. From Ayacucho it is a 30-minute taxi ride to the site. Services at the ruins are very limited, so bring water and a lunch.
- Pisac – Cusco region
Pisac is a major Inca ruin located in the Urubamba Valley near the town of Pisac. The ruins are high on the mountain overlooking the town. Many of the architectural and masonry technics found at Machu Picchu are shared at this site, only using a different rock type. Because of its location high on a ridge, one has a commanding view of the Urubamba Valley. A footpath from the town of Pisac can be used to climb up to the ruins using a steep long staircase, but one can also take taxis from the town of Pisac up to the site, and then hike back to the town. One of the nice aspects of Pisac is being able to explore the ruins without the massive crowds and expense of visiting Machu Picchu. The town of Pisac is nearly an hour’s drive northeast from the city of Cusco. Small buses are the most common or useful way to reach the town from Cusco. If spending time in the region seeing many of the Inca and Wari sites, its recommended to first visit Pisac before going to Machu Picchu because the other way around can be anticlimactic.
- Baños del Inca – Cajamarca
Baños del Inca, located about a fifteen minutes’ drive east of the city of Cajamarca in northern Peru, is not a large site as ruins go, but it was culturally a very cherished location for the Inca royalty. This hot spring complex was used extensively by the Incas, who developed the hot seeps into massive geometrically shaped outdoor pools. The Inca king had his own private bathhouse. What sets this site apart from others is that you can take a relaxing soak in the hot springs, or swim in the modern large pool. So unlike other ruins that are dusty or lacking oxygen, or involve rigorous hikes, Baños del Inca is the spa experience of archaeology. It is worthwhile staying the night in the nearby Laguna Seca Hotel, which also has hot springs and is just a short walk from the Baños del Inca. For more information on logistics for visiting this area see Hot Springs of the Andes. While visiting Cajamarca it is also a good idea to try their local fresh cheese. Nearby is another archaeological ruin called Ventanillas de Otuzco, which has carved arches and hollowed out niches in a bold outcrop of welded tuff.
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