SANTA CRUZ DE LA SIERRA, BOLIVIA

March 8, 2025 SouthAmerica

Bolivia’s second largest city, population including the greater area around 1.8 million, lies at the eastern foothills of the Andes, spread out along the flood plain of Rio Piray in subtropical forested plain. The city is positioned at the very nose of the large curve the Andes (latitude 17.78 degrees south) where it changes from going north-south in Chile-Argentina to running northwest across Peru and up to Ecuador. Geologists refer to this major shape change in the Andes as the Arica bend or the Bolivian oroflexure. Some 25 million years ago the western margin of the South America continent used to be straight. The bending of the convergent ocean-continent subduction margin resulted in about 20 to 25 degrees counterclockwise rotation of Peru and 5 to 10 degrees clockwise rotation of northern Chile. This in part contributed to thickening of the Andean crust, which obtains its greatest thickness of 70km in the middle of the Bolivian oroflexure; compare this to the average thickness of continental crust being 30km. Santa Cruz sits on the edge of the Brazilian craton on normal thickness crust with the mass of the Andean mountains pressing eastward towards the city by a series of thrust faults.

The plains to the southeast of Santa Cruz have the Parque Nacional Gran Chaco where capybaras, anteaters, jaguars, tapirs, and toucans wander the lowland swamplands and savannas. Turning to the west, canyonlands incise into the Andean foothills with many hidden waterfalls and small villages that are difficult to reach. Santa Cruz is the agriculture center for Bolivia, a conservative state that is pro-business and typically at odds with the socialist government that is based in the capital city of La Paz, located far away to the north.

The Viru Viru international airport makes for the best entry port for travel into the country, better than the run-down undersized airport in La Paz. If you come from the USA, check visa requirements; a five-year tourist visa costs US$160. Once arriving at the airport, the taxi trip into city center takes about twenty minutes and will cost around 70 Bolivianos.

Expect hot and humid weather with lots of rainfall in the summer months from December through March- and during the dry winter months poor air quality from all the fires used in clear cutting the plains to extend the farmlands. Given the hotter temperatures, Santa Cruz has a more active nightlife than found in other areas of Bolivia. While navigating Santa Cruz, know that the city has streets designed in large circles are called “anillos” or rings. The city has four majors inner anillos.

Staying

Los Tajibos, by Marriott, is one of the more upscale and interesting hotels to stay at and located in the heart of the more developed street of San Martin in Equipetrol sector. Nearby, along the fourth annillo, the new Marriott Santa Cruz hotel has one of the better restaurants for dinner. Another relatively new hotel is the Swissotel along the street Canal Isuto- this is located to the north, a bit out of the city into a rougher residential area, and literally along a canal of dubious character (in fact, immediately to the north of the hotel is open forest and very dangerous area were last year somebody was murdered). The hotel is great but always take a taxi and never walk around this area at night. Closer to the center of the city (also the downtown area should not be walked at nighttime) is the Hotel El Cortez (Av. Cristobal de Mendoza- 2nd ring), which is a bit more economic option and it is located eleven blocks walk to the plaza. The city has many other options for lodging, but these four hotels we have used numerous times over the last two years.

Dining

The typical “selva” food, is termed “camba” has several plates with some Brazilian influence, such as the dish “majau.” Expect seasoned rice, fried plantains and yuca, chicharron de largato (fried caiman), picante de pollo, pipian de pollo, surubi dishes (local fish type), sopa de mani (beef and vegetable soup in a peanut broth), “keperi” or “queperi” which is oven-baked beef cut, majau de charque (rice with shredded dry jerky), and majau de pato (rice with duck). The two best-known venues is the larger La Casa de Camba– second ring, along Av. Cristobal de Mendoza 1365, has a wider food selection and several other chain-like venues around the city. The El Aljibe Comida Típica– located on the southwest corner of the intersection between the streets Potosi and Ńuflo de Châvez, which is six blocks southeast of the plaza de armas, is a small venue in a historic building with a very personal secluded interior open air patio dining.

Santa Cruz dining has the best steakhouses in the country, and the prices for great cuts of beef are remarkably economical as compared to the United States. Our favorites have been at Vaca Morena on San Martin intersection with Lugunes Street, or their venue in the Ventura Mall. Tintos Carnes y Vino in the food court of the upscale Manzana 40 Plaza Empresarial in Equipetrol Norte has a modern vibe. Fogo de Chão at the Ventura Mall for Brazilian style dining and along the same style the Brasargent Rodizio in the Patio Design Lifestyle Center.

For Italian food, try Restaurante Michelangelo at the Patio Design Lifestyle Center (mall dining center located at third ring, west side of Santa Cruz facing the oval on Avenida Busch). Back at the plaza de armas, the open patio restaurant Noi Pizzería for, yes, pizzas.

Both the Ventura Mall and Patio Design Lifestyle Center have dozens of other options, plus the many other venues along San Martin Avenue.

southamericatotheworld.com — Photograph of keperi, which is oven-baked beef cut, served with majau de charque (rice with shredded dry jerky.)

Doing

The Plaza de Armas, a.k.a. Plaza Metropolitana 24 de Septiembre, is the city’s main attraction. The trees provide for shade from the summer heat, and nearby ice cream shops provide another option for cooling off. Several of the dining options around here were mentioned above. A visit to the plaza can combine some shopping at the artisan market of La Recova and a visit to the artists gallery in the Centro Cultural Casa Melchor Pinto. The second-floor balcony of the Irish Pub on the east side of the plaza makes for a useful vantage point of the plaza traffic while having a cold beer.

Cafes- Typica Equipetrol on the street La Plata (8 Oeste) just west of San Martin, for a hipster retro experience, or modern at the Alquimia Specialty Coffee Shop along the C. F, street on the north side in the Fidalga shipping complex on San Martin.

The Ventura Mall just north of Equipetrol on the fourth ring is a large newer complex with many import stores, dining, and movie theater, plus supermarket, and probably one of the best-known areas for expensive shopping in the city.

Zoológico Municipal de Santa Cruz De La Sierra is located along Av. Noel Kempff Mercado or the third “anillo” in the north central part of the city about 12 blocks east of Avenida San Martin. The entrance fee is very affordable, making the place is popular destination for school groups. The zoo is surprisingly extensive, and a favorite of ours. Particularly good in the aviary with a pair of toucans and parrots, the jaguars, and the capybara enclosures. Also expect lots of turtles, other jungle cats, and a reptile house.