Lake Titicaca

July 31, 2023 SouthAmerica

Lake Titicaca, is the largest lake in South America. It stretches 179-km long, and averages about 66-km wide. Making an immense basin in the northern Altiplano plateau of the Andes. The lake drains to the south through Rio Desaguadero, which starts at the 3,812-meter elevation from the lake. It runs 257-km south to die in the depression occupied by Lago Poopó at the 3,698 meters elevation. Titicaca averages 107-meters deep and at its deepest reaches 281 meters.

Geologically, the Lake lies in an intermontane basin that it is bordered to the east; by the snow-capped Cordillera Oriental. This has several summits exceeding the 6,000 meters of elevation. And to the west it has the more arid Cordillera; the Cordillera Occidental. The geometry of the Lake is highly irregular. The east coastline’s relief is more abrupt, following ridges and valleys from the folded strata. This suggests that this part of the border is still actively being uplifted. The northwest, west, and southwest sides, also, have large embayments and concave bulges from five major prograding deltas. In addition, the high stratovolcano of Cerro Khapia straddles the west side of the Lake, and this partially subdivides the southern lobe of the lake. This area is known as Huiñaimarca. The Andes continue to bulge, wrinkle, and cup in this massive basin. Even as its eroded fragments are promptly dumped into its cradled depression.

More detailed information about the early geology of the basin was described by N.D. Newell, in a memoir called “Geology of Lake Titicaca region, Peru and Bolivia” published in 1949.

https://www.southamericatotheworld.com/ — Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo

Politically, the Lake is equally divided between Bolivia and Peru. But it once was the heartland of the Inca Empire. In fact, the Incas believed their lineage came from the lake, from the Sacred Rock (Roca Sagrada) on the barren island of Isla de Sol on the Bolivia side of the border. Andean legend has it that Manco Capac, the first Inca king, and Mama Ocllo, ascended from the lake to build the Inca Empire. He was believed to be a god sent to rule over the people. Their mission was to find the right place in which to establish their empire. The Sun god, known as Inti, gave Manco Capac a gold scepter and told him that wherever he could bury the scepter, that would be the place to establish his empire. After many days of walking with no luck, they made it to Cusco. And there he buried his scepter, and the awaited moment ended. This legend is also known as the Lake Titicaca Legend. Cusco operated as the power seat or capital of the Inca Empire during a succession of twelve rulers. Whereas near the southern shore of Lake Titicaca, the large ruin complex of Tiwanaku was the most important inhabited area of the time. The art style in the stone carvings and statues suggests the culture there long pre-dated the arrival of the first Incas.

Visiting the stone ruins on Isla de Sol, which is about as close to the center of the Lake as one can reasonably reach. Is done by tour boats that go out daily from the town of Copacabana. Many visitors stay the night on the island, using the hostels in the town of Yumani. We recently chartered a small boat from the port village of Yampupata to visit the northern part of the island. And, after being stiffed from a local community-owned boat company running out of Copacabana (choose your boat passage carefully, and do not pay upfront!).

The crystalline blue waters were remarkably still this day, making for a relaxing boat ride. We followed this with a fine lunch from freshly harvested farmed lake trout at one of the artificial “floating islands.” The Lake is sapphire blue by noon, and it turns golden upon sunset. As if mirroring the Inca’s religion of sun worshiping. The southern tip of Isla del Sol has the highly trafficked Inca ruins, in a remarkably attractive shape, called Templo del Sol, which faces east towards the sunrise. The complete experience of the lake environment entails spending the night on its shores and watching the star-filled night.