IS THE SOUTH AMERICA CENTURY OF BEER DROUGHT OVER?

April 10, 2017 SouthAmerica

One has to be honest about South American countries; the beer has sucked for a long time. This is not to say that beer is not appreciated or consumed in large quantities. The issue has been monopolies set up by the largest national brewing companies, making it about impossible for start-ups…but these giants are losing their king of the mountain position, the earth is fracturing beneath their very feet. It is just surprising that it has taken so long. Decades of Cristal, Club, Pilsner, or Quilmes is coming to an end.

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One could say it started long ago in Chile with the Kuntsmann brewery, which has several beer styles and is widely distributed, to the point of essentially being the more expensive national beer. They are trying to keep up, now having over nine styles of beer, but still lacking a taphouse in Santiago. Having German immigrants has helped in fostering a respect for beer that actually contains ingredients. And yet, 99% of South America population has yet to be educated in the ways of zymurgy. The Santiago competitor Kross is doing some good brewing, and has opened a venue in Bellavista barrio of Santiago. Chile remains dominated by Cristal, and of course, very fine wines.

Now Peru, with millions of foreign tourists coming through the country over the last two decades to check of the travel box of Machu Picchu, had an early rival to the national breweries, a competitor called Cusquena, which was bought out by the national brewing company of Cristal. I remember thinking at the time, the beer was not as good as before, they must have cut back on the amount of barley in the wort. So Cusquena is widely distributed, and in most places of Peru is the most drinkable option, and they have taken measures, out of necessity I may add, of adding new styles including a red and wheat beer. Going back to 2011, in Huaraz a local brewery started, called Sierra Andina, which makes several great beers, but because of their mountain location beneath the glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca (It’s not downstream beer!) they have very limited distribution. Their Alpamayo amber ale is highly recommended.

Meanwhile, in Lima, the race is on. The leader was, and is, Barbarian, who recently opened a taphouse in Miraflores where over 20 beers are on tap. Barbarian managed to wrestle having some of their products for distribution in Lima supermarkets, a feat that I imagine was not easy. I have also held some reservations about brewing with the Lima water supply, and still do. It has not taken long for the market to crack open, that national beer king on the mountain is closer to being dethroned! The Barranco Beer Company, a true craft brewery, located in Barranco, is the only one that serves beer that is made on the premise in all of Peru. To be honest, the beer has been a bit hit and miss, and during peak times getting service is slow. Nearly a dozen local start-ups have joined the race, including Invictus, Nuevo Mundo, Cumbres, Bacchus, Greenga, Oveja Negra, Santos Demonios, Maddock, Jaya, Costumbres, Planeta Bierra, Kennel, Machay, Candelaria, Teach, Zenith, Tio Luque, and Magdalena. Others names, like Saqra, are backed by the premiers restaurateur Gaston, and just strikes me as chasing the money rather than appreciating the craft of brewing. Even the Casa Andina hotel started making beer! Finally, up in Cusco, Norton’s pub has been serving their own beer for a long time but does not seem ready to break out into the wider market. Peru still has a long ways to go for greatness in brewing because many have slight off hints in their flavour. We are not talking blatant infections, but rather subtle flavor shifts that leaves on wondering what type of barley is being used, or what styles of hops do they brew with in Peru?

https://www.southamericatotheworld.com/ — Turtle Head – Ecuador

In Ecuador, there is one craft brewery that has the British style pub called Turtle Head. It started in 1999, and has six styles on draft. It seems that Ecuadorians enjoy the cerveza Negra. The place is quite lively during an Ecuador national soccer team game, but otherwise, it is your old slippery pub, complete with country flags on the ceiling, dart boards, and fuzz ball. Their IPA was quite respectable. The race has begun in Quito with two new competitors, Bandidos, and Paramo. They have joined forces and opened a taphouse, called Bandidos del Paramo. And while serving a wider variety of drafts than probably anywhere in Ecuador, the beer is still not made on the premise.

In Colombia is one shining star, and this is the Colombia Beer Company (aka BBC). They have become so successful that they have 27 taphouse in the city that makes it seem a less personal experience. To reiterate, in none of these do they make the beer. Their beers are polished, with six mainstream styles, but they also have around 20 additional rotators or seasonals. A favourite is their Monserrate Roja. In Medellin the brewery of choice is 3Cordilleras. Santa Marta has a brewery called Nevada Cervecería that makes several fine beverages, and perhaps the best coca pale ale made to date. If travelling to Cartagena, try Beer Lovers on street Cra. 3 #36-3 for a wide selection of beers. Another brand worth mention is Apostol, their marzal makes for nice amber ale.

Bolivia remains in severe beer drought, and surprsingingly enough, most of Brazil. Brazilians are trying, but the national giant AB InBev (which is Budweiser) is doing its damned best to squash the little guys. The ones that are making are Morada, 2Cabecas, and Baden Baden. If in Rio de Janerio, try Botto Bar for a selection of drafts. In Sao Paolo Cervajaria Nacional is an actual brew pub, and they have the coasters to prove it.

Lastly we come to Argentina, the land of the Quilmes and great steaks. Antares, which first started in Mar del Plata, now has 20 some brew houses. In Buenos Aires, try bottled products from Otro Mundo Brewing Company or in Recoleta to go to spot is Buller Pub (they have two other locations). In the land of wine Mendoza Cerveza Antares has a venue there. Many start-ups are spread across Argentina, with numbers ranging from 300 to 600. A few artisanal bottled brands to try are Zeppelin (Patagonia), El Bolson, and Barba Roja (Buenos Aires). Our amigo in Mendoza believes the Cervecería Blest in Bariloche is the best brew pub in Argentina.

Beer in South America is still struggling with the IPA, with perhaps the BBC in Colombia having the best one to date. You will also find some experimental variants, as all home brewers are wont to do, with things like coca, quinoa, exotic fruits, café, peppers, and chocolate. These have not been very drinkable. One of the real frustrations while travelling in South America is that once you have knowledge that other beers are out there beyond the main piss-water national brands is why on Earth so many restaurants and bars have not got the message. To add insult to injury being a gringo in South America, one invariable has waiters offering with pride Budweiser, Corona, or Heineken. The drought is not over, but there are few beer oases in each country!