INCA PETROGLYPHS AT YERBAS BUENAS, NORTHERN CHILE

April 22, 2019 SouthAmerica

The Yerbas Buenas Inca petroglyph site in the northern Chilean Atacama Desert lies north of the tourist destination town of San Pedro de Atacama, and they can be visited in a day trip with a rental car. The petroglyphs are in a dry canyon eroded through crystal shard-rich welded ash-flow tuff deposit. The Inca drawings are marked on a series of vertical walls formed by cooling joints in the tuff. Salisbury and others (2011) dated the volcanic formation at 8.3 million years before present, which was in the late Miocene. These rock formations lie on the west side of Rio Salado, and are located about 4 km directly south of the other famous tourist geographic point called Valle de Arco Iris. The area has no services, so make sure to have a full tank of gasoline and bring plenty of water.

To get there drive west out of San Pedro de Atacama along the main highway of Route 23. At about 35 kilometers out take a north turn onto Route B-207, and follow it back northeastward for about 23.5 km. The site is located on the left side of the road (north side) and has some obvious low buildings that cannot be missed. If you cross over Rio Salado you have driven too far. A visit here will take at least half a day if one is based in San Pedro de Atacama, plus, you will most likely have to use a rented car to get there (car rentals are sourced at the Calama airport). Alternatively, it is possible a tourist agency in town can arrange a visit. The site is controlled by CONAF, the Chilean national park agency. They charge a nominal entrance fee. The park is not well developed, but it does have set trails leading to the best petroglyph panels.

The most commonly illustrated animals are alpacas or guanacos. The rock sketches come in all sizes, and there is no mistaking the alpacas. Whether or not these represent some systematic accounting of herds, trade, or are mere idle drawing to pass the time remain a matter of speculation. Other drawings present include human stick-figure style drawings, crisscrossed lines, foxes, puma, flamencos, and “the dragon.” Some radical miss-information may be communicated on organized tours through here about alien visitors, trade with Egypt, and spiritual hogwash particularly about the seated human figure called “Los Chamanes” or the Shamen.

After visiting the petroglyphs you should have enough time to continue to Valle de Arco Iris (accessed off another dirt road back west from the Yerbas Buenas), which is known for its deep reddish to greenish rock formations, or drive out to the end of the paved Route 207 to see the small village hiding in the steep-sided canyon along the Rio Grande.