El Tatio Geysers, Chile- an excerpt from “Hot Springs of the Andes”

August 12, 2019 SouthAmerica

The Tatio geyser field is generally considered the third largest in the world, and the largest field of geysers in the Southern Hemisphere. It is not the highest geyser field, Valle de los Geiseres in Perú is at 4,342 m, about 100 meters higher. At Tatio over 80 geysers cluster into three distinct zones or areas, with most visitors being guided to the upper main field. Nearly all of the geysers fountains are below 1-m in height, averaging at 75 cm. The highest fountain height reported was a 6 m, but 2 m eruptions may better be expected. The upper field geysers align along two parallel NE-oriented fractures or feeder faults that cut through Miocene tuff sheet that underlies the Pliocene to modern volcanic piles lying off to the east of the geysers. Some travel guides have erroneously reported the geothermal field to have formed in the center of a volcanic crater. Hot water for the springs is most likely circulated from around the cooling magma chamber underlying the Cerro Volcán complex to the east. Note that the closest historically active volcano lies 30-km to the SE at Putana.

Geysers, mud pots, boiling pools, and solfaterra are too dangerous for entering the water. One must tread carefully because of the unstable ground provided with hidden pockets of boiling water beneath the surface; therefore, it is best to keep on the established trails.

southamericatotheworld.com — El Tatio Geyser

Fernandez-Turiel et al. (2005) reported the following temperatures: geysers at 70-86°C, surrounding splash zones 60-70°C, hot springs 40 to 60°C, and discharge streams ranging from 20 to 40°C. With this said, one larger pool downstream of the geysers is commonly used for bathers, and has water reported at 35°C. The thermal field appears geologically young, having not built up massive ledges around the vents. Also take note that the Tatio geothermal field has been identified as a source of high arsenic water, with values reported up to 50,000 ug l-1 (Ellis and Mahon, 1977). Definitely do not drink this water!

The only available soaking spot is at the Pozo Rustica, which has small vent flowing boiling water into a large pool. The hot water forms a 2 to 3 cm layer that spreads out over warm water. Getting too close to the source is signaled by people saying “Ouch.” This “too hot” line is illustrated in the distribution of bathers in the photograph of the hot spring. The hot springs lack changing rooms, most people huddle along a stone wall to change while wrapping themselves in a towel. The water is muddy, and given the pool size versus water flux ratio and number of bathers, it may not be the healthiest of soaks to take.

Most visitors going to El Tatio do so through a tour agency located in San Pedro de Atacama, and get rushed through the experience with guides herding their clients shouting “Vamos!” Private vehicles gain little in speed during the drive while being on the road at the same time as the tour buses.

The trip up to El Tatio covers approximately 96-km on graded dirt roads, and most vehicles taking the journey have high clearance and/or are 4×4. Muddy and rougher sections slow the drive time down on the last 10-km of the trip. The drive in the pre-dawn requires caution with steep grades and sudden curves. The road going to El Tatio leaves from the north central part of San Pedro de Atacama, and is well signed. A ~23-km drive to the junction at Guitino, turn left, then wind up many grades, go around Río Putana, by some old mine dumps, and then onto a Puna plateau overlooked to the east by a series of snow-covered volcanoes. A few more rolling hills are passed to access a NS-running shallow valley and descend to the hot springs. First pay the entrance fee at the stone hut, and then onto the parking lot scene with tour agencies serving hot drinks to their clients, and people wandering off the trails and risking scalding water to pose for pictures.

For more Hot Springs check our book “Hot Springs Of The Andes” which provides the essential advice on exploring the hidden secrets of natural relaxation, with GPS coordinates for each hot spring. These Hot Springs are placed in the context of the main volcanic zones of The Andes, covering countries such as; Argentina, Bolivia, Colombia, Chile, Ecuador, and Peru. Each country paints a different cultural experience for enjoying these hot springs, some of them have been used by and before The Incas.