AGUAS CALIENTES, MACHU PICCHU PUEBLO, PERU

September 4, 2017 SouthAmerica

SEPTEMBER FEATURED HOT SPRING – AGUAS CALIENTES, MACHU PICCHU PUEBLO, PERU

We report on Aguas Calientes with fond remembrance; after all, it was the first hot spring we visited together before starting our grand project of Hot Springs of the Andes. It is one of the few hot springs in Perú that are hosted in granitic rocks, and these rocks are old, falling in the Permian period, or about 250 million years ago when they were molten and then crystallizing. The surrounding rocks comprising the canyon walls in which sits Aguas Calientes is of the same unit or intrusion as what comprises Machu Picchu. The town of Aguas Calientes (recently ineptly renamed “Machu Picchu pueblo” in an effort to confuse everyone) is already a dramatic spot situated in a deep canyon with vertical walls draped in moss and vines. The space-limited town is packed with tourists’ shops, restaurants, and hotels. Of course, the world famous ruins are the main motivator for people to descend Río Urubamba and stay the night here.

The hot springs are located up the canyon, about 800 meters to east of the town (-13.150755, -72.52131). From the Plaza de Armas, follow the pedestrian path uphill starting near the Machu Picchu ticket office. Go by dozens of similar appearing restaurants, souvenir shops, and massage parlors. Near the end of town the towel rental outfits appear, and then the ticket booth. Right nearby is an impressive large sculpture in the granitic outcrop. The entrance fee is 20 Soles per person. The wide stone path leading uphill along the rushing river has lampposts and a bridge, and is well-constructed for the number of visitors. Moss is already clinging to the manmade walls; the deep gorge is interesting to see.

The hot spring water is somewhat murky. Bring your own towel. They require the use of sandals, though they seem to let people slide on this. While soaking in the pools, looking up at the steep canyon walls covered with lush mountain jungle forest, consider what brought the Incas into this rugged country. Nobody would be here taking a hot soak if the Incas were not good at stone masonry. The hot spring facility is protected from the rushing canyon river by a high wall. There are 7 pools, only one of which has water hot enough for a good soak. The pool temperatures vary, ranging from 38ºC to 46ºC with the hottest water coming from the vent. The uppermost larger pool has the hotter water. Here the water is greenish, the pool lined by ceramic tile, the floor of the pool covered in thick sand. A pseudo-hippy Inca tribal bar overlooking the hot springs serves Coca Sours and a limited selection of snacks. Dining in town is not far away, featuring expensive poorly prepared food in general.

To get to Aguas Calientes, most will travel via train from either Cuzco or Ollantaytambo. Tickets for the train can be purchased in the Perú Rail office on the east side of Cuzco’s Plaza de Armas, or in the national flight section of the Lima airport. Train tickets start at US$33; be sure to bring your passport. The train company somehow confuses selling tickets with passenger identification required for crossing international borders. The train ride takes about 2.5-3 hours from Cuzco. The hot springs are open from 5 a.m. until 8:30 p.m. daily.

Many visitors to Machu Picchu and this unique canyon can say they did the ruin, but not all of them will walk away with the hot spring experience. This is a must do part of the journey.