A Night of Tango, Milonga, and Candombe in Montevideo-Uruguay
While, visiting a new city in a new country is always exciting. Although nowadays we can find lots of information on the internet, nothing replaces the experience of learning something new in the place of origin. This happened to us while in Montevideo. Uruguay’s capital city. Often, we prefer to visit local places instead of the most popular ones. If we are lucky, we can find a place that combines both factors. Being local, and popular at the same time.
While in Montevideo we visited a place called El Milongon, offering traditional dances as; Tango, Milonga, Candombe, and folk dances. All these names were somehow intriguing. When we hear Tango, we think of Argentina. Milonga you relate to Argentina and Uruguay. But, Candombe was a dance that we haven’t heard of it before.
The show started with some folk dances. One dance was very interesting representing the Gaucho Uruguayo. With their characteristic clothes and making a display of their skills with the boleadora. The boleadora or bolas is a gauchos’ weapon. They make it with rope, and three balls at the end. These balls are made of stone covered with leather well attached to the rope. During the dance, the speed with which the dancers moved the boleadoras was something that scared us, but impressed us too.
Their dances where peculiar. They wore cowboy boots with a good 1-inch heel and while dancing they will bend the heel to the ground. This was a step in their dance that was different. We were hoping they didn’t twist their ankles. Usually while dancing you try to avoid twisting your ankle, but this step was purposely and masterfully done.
Next, were the Milonga and Tango performers, that didn’t disappoint. They performed La Cumparsita, their most famous tango. Their national musician Mr. Gerardo Matos Rodriguez composed this tango back in 1916. Something we have noticed in Uruguay is the pride they have in their country and their culture.
Finally, they presented El Candombe, that turns out to be the most representative dance from Montevideo. El Candombe was a dance introduced to Montevideo by African slaves brought to the port. Which in colonial times was the main center of slave trades. Candombe has a rich sound with a set of drums that invites people to dance. Although originally it was a private event, now it has become a wide popular dance in Uruguay.
Candombe, is the fusion of many African songs and dances, brought to South America. Some historians believe that Candombe was a religious ritual. Others, believe it was a way to escape their reality while preserving their culture. Whatever the origins of Candombe. We are glad that it didn’t disappear over the years. As it’s often the case with folk dances. These first African groups, combined their music successfully. The result was, what we know now as Candombe. This dance that has become the most representative cultural expression of Afro-Uruguayans, is a proof of how they are preserving their heritage. And, I am sure; they are making their ancestors very proud of it.
I am fond of drum sounds; I attribute this to the fact of having grown up in Peru to the beats of Afro-Peruvian music. We learned that to play Candombe they use three main drums of different sizes; Chico, Repique and Piano. And they performed the dance with characters of typical symbolism to the African culture. There is La mama vieja, and El Gramillero. The mama vieja is the old mother, the wisest woman. And her partner, el gramillero the community’s healer.
The Candombe dance has become a long way since the eighteenth-century, when only Africans would practice this dance. Now, each year in February, in the city of Montevideo they celebrate their carnival. There is the Desfile de Llamadas. Where Candombe, now a popular dance. Has turned into a contest, with participants of different backgrounds, who enjoy their culture, and they are there to celebrate. This usually takes place in the neighborhoods of Sur and Palermo. Both, considered the birthplaces of the Candombe. At Milongon, we had a great night. Consisting of; a Uruguayan dinner with a spectacular show. This venue is a great alternative for people who can’t make it to the carnival, or for people who prefer a more private place.
We enjoyed our trip to Uruguay. As good visitors, we tried their traditional mate. Enjoyed their asados in El Mercado del Puerto. We delighted their Tannat wine and learned about Candombe dance. If press on time while visiting Montevideo we recommend El Milongon, as they themselves say; “Conoces el Milongon, Conoces Uruguay” or “If you visited el Milongon, you visited Uruguay.”
Back in 2009, they inscribed the Candombe on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.
Well done, República Oriental del Uruguay!
Do connect with us:
ResearchGate: James M. Wise
Author´s page: James M. Wise
Photography page: JamesM.Wise.com
Author´s page: Yanira K. Wise
South America seems to refuse to show its inexhaustible creative force.
